How to Test a Used Laptop Before Buying: The Complete Windows & Mac Guide (2026)

To test a used laptop, check six things in this order: the identity (serial number, model, activation and locks), the battery (design vs full-charge capacity and cycle count), the SSD (health, wear and errors), the motherboard and hardware (BIOS, crash logs, missing devices), the screen, keyboard and ports, and the heat and performance under load. Every step below has the exact command for Windows first, then Mac, and explains what a healthy result and a faulty result look like.

This is the same process a technician follows. It takes about 30 to 40 minutes and shows the true condition of the battery, the drive, the motherboard and every hardware part.

Quick checklist: what to test (and in what order)

1. Look at the body first: dents, hinge play, missing screws, liquid marks, mismatched serial stickers.

2. Confirm identity and locks: serial number, model, Windows activation, BIOS password, company or Apple ID lock.

3. Generate the battery report and compare design capacity against full-charge capacity.

4. Read the SSD health and wear, and check for read and write errors.

5. Check the motherboard side: BIOS date, crash and hardware-error events, devices with problems.

6. Test the screen, keyboard, touchpad, speakers, microphone, camera, Wi-Fi and every port.

7. Run a stress test for 10 minutes and watch temperature and fan behaviour.

The free browser tools on AvadaBD cover the hardware part of this list with no install: display test, keyboard test, touchpad test, speaker test, microphone test, ports and connectivity test and the performance test. A shorter Bangla version of the tool checklist is in সেকেন্ড হ্যান্ড ল্যাপটপ টেস্ট গাইড.

Prefer Bangla? Read the Bangla version of this guide: ইউজড ল্যাপটপ কেনার আগে কীভাবে টেস্ট করবেন. The commands are the same in both languages.

What you need before you start

• A charger and mains power. The tests take about 40 minutes and the laptop should stay plugged in, except during the battery discharge test.

• A USB drive with portable tools. CrystalDiskInfo, HWiNFO and OCCT all run without installing, which keeps the test clean and works without internet.

• An administrator account. Most commands in this guide need an administrator PowerShell on Windows or a Terminal with sudo access on Mac.

• A guest or local account. Run the tests without signing in to a personal Google, Microsoft or Apple account.

Step 1: Inspect the body before you power on

Most expensive problems are visible before the laptop even boots. Spend five minutes here.

• Hinges and lid: open and close the lid a few times. It should move smoothly with no creak, no wobble and no gap between lid and base. A loose hinge is a cracked-plastic repair in the making.

• Screws and seams: stripped, missing or mismatched screws on the bottom plate show the laptop has been opened for service or a part replacement.

• Bottom, vents and ports: look for rust or white residue (liquid damage), melted plastic near the vents and bent USB or charging pins.

• Rubber feet and bulge: a laptop that rocks on a flat table or has a lifted trackpad may have a swollen battery, which needs replacing before the laptop is used.

• Sticker and serial match: the serial number on the underside should match the one in the BIOS and in the operating system (checked in step 2). A mismatch usually means the motherboard has been replaced.

• Screen edges and corners: look for pressure marks, cracks, yellow patches and a bright halo near the corners with the screen off (backlight bleed).

Windows: how to test a used laptop with PowerShell

Everything in this section works on Windows 10 and Windows 11. Press the Windows key, type PowerShell, right-click it and choose Run as administrator. Copy each command exactly. Lines starting with a command are shown in bold. Older guides use the wmic command; Microsoft has removed it from recent Windows 11 builds, so this guide uses PowerShell instead, which works everywhere.

Windows step 2: Identity, specs and locks

Read the real specifications from the system itself and compare them with the product listing: processor model, installed RAM, storage and graphics.

Model, manufacturer and serial number:

Get-CimInstance Win32_ComputerSystem | Select-Object Manufacturer, Model, TotalPhysicalMemory

Get-CimInstance Win32_BIOS | Select-Object SerialNumber, SMBIOSBIOSVersion, ReleaseDate

Processor name, cores and speed:

Get-CimInstance Win32_Processor | Select-Object Name, NumberOfCores, NumberOfLogicalProcessors, MaxClockSpeed

Installed memory modules (capacity, speed, maker) so you can see how many slots are used and whether the RAM is soldered:

Get-CimInstance Win32_PhysicalMemory | Select-Object BankLabel, Capacity, Speed, Manufacturer, PartNumber

Graphics adapters (a gaming laptop should show both integrated and dedicated graphics):

Get-CimInstance Win32_VideoController | Select-Object Name, AdapterRAM, DriverVersion

Windows version and the date Windows was first installed (a recent install date on an older laptop is normal after a reset):

systeminfo | Select-String "^OS Name","^OS Version","^Original Install Date","^System Boot Time"

Windows activation status. A laptop should be permanently or digitally activated:

slmgr /xpr

slmgr /dli

Each of these opens a small pop-up window with the result. Close it before running the next one.

Company or school lock check. Many used business laptops come from corporate fleets. If the laptop is still enrolled in a company, it can be remotely locked or wiped. Run:

dsregcmd /status

Under Device State, if AzureAdJoined or DomainJoined says YES, the laptop is still enrolled in an organisation. It must be removed from that company account before the laptop can be used as a personal device.

BitLocker and TPM. If the drive is encrypted and the recovery key is not available, a reset can make the data inaccessible:

manage-bde -status

Get-Tpm

BIOS password. Restart and press the BIOS key (F2, F10, Del or Esc, depending on the brand). If it asks for a supervisor password, the BIOS is locked and settings cannot be changed until the password is cleared.

Windows step 3: The battery report

This is the single most important report for any used laptop. Windows can generate a full battery history file with one command. Run it in the administrator PowerShell window you opened:

powercfg /batteryreport /output "$env:USERPROFILE\battery-report.html"

Windows prints the path where the report was saved. Open it in your browser with the next command, then read the lines below:

Start-Process "$env:USERPROFILE\battery-report.html"

• Design capacity is what the battery held when it was new (for example 52,000 mWh).

• Full charge capacity is what it holds today (for example 41,600 mWh).

• Cycle count is how many full charge cycles it has been through.

• Installed batteries shows the manufacturer and chemistry, and whether the battery looks original.

• Battery life estimates and the usage history show how long it really lasts.

Work out the health with one division: full charge capacity ÷ design capacity × 100. A 52,000 mWh battery that now holds 41,600 mWh is at 80 percent.

• 80 percent or more: healthy. Expect solid daily use.

• 60 to 79 percent: usable, but the battery is already worn and will need replacing within a year or two.

• Below 60 percent, or a cycle count above 800: treat the battery as consumed. It will not hold a useful charge.

• Full charge capacity equals design capacity exactly, with a high cycle count: suspicious. Some batteries report inaccurate values. Verify with a real discharge test (below).

Two more commands give you a deeper read:

powercfg /energy /output "$env:USERPROFILE\energy-report.html" /duration 60

The energy report runs for 60 seconds while you leave the laptop idle, then lists power problems, devices that stop the laptop from sleeping, and battery warnings. Read the Errors section first.

powercfg /a

This shows which sleep states the hardware supports. A modern laptop that cannot sleep properly usually has a firmware or driver issue.

Do a real discharge check. Unplug the charger, set the screen to full brightness, play a video for ten minutes and note the percentage drop. A healthy battery loses roughly 4 to 8 percent in ten minutes on a typical office laptop. A drop of 15 percent or more, or a sudden shutdown at 30 percent, means a weak or failing battery regardless of what the report says.

Check the charger too. Plug in the original charger and look at the battery icon. A message like "plugged in, not charging" or "unknown adapter" means a wrong-wattage or damaged charger, or a faulty charging port on the motherboard.

Windows step 4: SSD and hard drive health

The drive is the second most expensive part you can be fooled about. A worn SSD fails without warning and takes your data with it. Start with the quick health status:

Get-PhysicalDisk | Select-Object FriendlyName, MediaType, BusType, HealthStatus, OperationalStatus, Size

HealthStatus must say Healthy. MediaType must say SSD if the listing says SSD. Now read the real wear and error counters:

Get-PhysicalDisk | Get-StorageReliabilityCounter | Select-Object DeviceId, Temperature, Wear, PowerOnHours, ReadErrorsTotal, WriteErrorsTotal

• Wear is the percentage of the drive's rated life already used. Under 20 is good, over 70 is a drive near the end of its life, and 100 means it has reached its rated endurance.

• PowerOnHours is how long the drive has been running. Divide by 24 for days. A laptop with 15,000 hours has had heavy daily use.

• ReadErrorsTotal and WriteErrorsTotal should be zero or a small number that does not keep rising. Climbing error counts mean a failing drive.

• Blank fields usually mean the drive or driver does not report that value, not that the value is zero. Use CrystalDiskInfo below for a second opinion.

For the full SMART report that every technician trusts, run the portable version of CrystalDiskInfo from your USB drive. Look at three lines: Health Status (Good, Caution or Bad), Total Host Writes, and Percentage Used (NVMe drives) or Reallocated Sectors (older SATA drives). Any Caution or Bad means the drive is not safe to buy. If you prefer the command line, install smartmontools and run:

smartctl --scan

smartctl -a /dev/sda

If the scan lists an NVMe drive, use its name instead, for example smartctl -a /dev/nvme0. Then check the file system and measure real speed:

chkdsk C: /scan

winsat disk -drive c

The winsat command prints sequential read and write speeds. A SATA SSD should show roughly 400 to 550 MB/s, and an NVMe SSD 1,500 MB/s or more. A drive far below those numbers is throttling or failing. Also check the real capacity of the drive:

Get-Volume | Select-Object DriveLetter, FileSystemLabel, SizeRemaining, Size

The total size should match the drive size in the listing. A 512 GB drive that shows only about 238 GB in total is really a 256 GB drive, so compare this number with the listed capacity.

Windows step 5: Motherboard and hardware health report

There is no single "motherboard report" button in Windows, because the motherboard is not one component. What you can do is ask five questions, and each one has a command.

1. Is the motherboard the original one? Read the board model and serial number and compare it with the laptop sticker and the BIOS serial from step 2:

Get-CimInstance Win32_BaseBoard | Select-Object Manufacturer, Product, SerialNumber, Version

2. Is the BIOS recent and unmodified? A BIOS from five years ago on a laptop sold as "2023" is a flag. Check the vendor, version and date:

Get-CimInstance Win32_BIOS | Select-Object Manufacturer, SMBIOSBIOSVersion, ReleaseDate

3. Has it crashed or had hardware errors? Windows records every unexpected shutdown and every hardware error. Look at the last ten:

Get-WinEvent -FilterHashtable @{LogName="System"; Id=41,1001,6008} -MaxEvents 15 | Select-Object TimeCreated, Id, Message | Format-List

Get-WinEvent -FilterHashtable @{LogName="System"; ProviderName="Microsoft-Windows-WHEA-Logger"} -MaxEvents 10 | Format-List TimeCreated, Message

Event 41 is an unexpected power loss, 1001 is a blue-screen crash and 6008 is a dirty shutdown. WHEA-Logger events are hardware errors reported by the processor, memory or motherboard. A handful from months ago is normal. Dozens in the last few days means a failing component. If PowerShell says "No events were found", that is a good sign, not an error.

4. Are any devices broken or missing? List every device Windows reports a problem with:

pnputil /enum-devices /problem

Get-PnpDevice -PresentOnly | Where-Object Status -ne "OK" | Select-Object FriendlyName, Class, Status

A clean laptop returns nothing. Items like "Unknown device" or a camera, Wi-Fi card or touchpad with an error code point to a hardware fault, a missing driver or a removed part.

5. Is the memory good? Bad RAM causes random crashes and corrupted files. Run Windows Memory Diagnostic:

mdsched.exe

Choose Restart now and check for problems. The laptop reboots, tests the memory for about 10 to 15 minutes and shows the result after login. For a stronger test, run MemTest86 from a USB drive.

Finally, repair the operating system files and confirm Windows is not damaged, which is common after bad shutdowns:

sfc /scannow

DISM /Online /Cleanup-Image /CheckHealth

Windows step 6: Network, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth and ports

netsh wlan show wlanreport

This builds a Wi-Fi report (saved at C:\ProgramData\Microsoft\Windows\WlanReport\wlan-report-latest.html) with every connection and disconnection of the last three days. A card that drops constantly has either a bad antenna cable or a bad card.

ipconfig /all

ping -n 20 8.8.8.8

Twenty replies with no loss and stable times mean the network card is healthy. Also test the real speed, because a weak Wi-Fi card or antenna shows up as slow or unstable downloads.

For Bluetooth, pair a phone or earbuds and confirm they stay connected. Then plug a USB drive into every USB port in turn, test the HDMI output with a monitor or TV, the headphone jack, the SD card slot and the charging port. Loose or dead ports are one of the most common faults on used laptops.

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Windows step 7: Screen, keyboard, touchpad, speakers, microphone and camera

Commands cannot find a dead pixel or a sticky key, so use your eyes, ears and fingers with the right tools. Check each one below.

Screen. Show solid red, green, blue, white and black full-screen colours. Look for dead pixels (always black), stuck pixels (always one colour), a yellow or pink tint, pressure marks and backlight bleed at the corners and edges.

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Keyboard. Press every key, including the function row, the arrow keys, the spacebar and the power button. Watch for keys that double-type, stick or do not register, and check the backlight if the laptop has one.

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Touchpad. Check left click, right click, scrolling, and the two- and three-finger gestures. The whole surface should respond, with no dead zones or a button that feels loose.

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Speakers. Test the left and right channels separately, then raise the volume. Crackling, buzzing or one silent side means a damaged speaker or a loose connector.

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Microphone. Record yourself for five seconds and play it back. The sound should be clear, with no heavy noise, echo or very low volume.

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Camera. Open the webcam and check that the picture is sharp, the colours are normal and the privacy shutter (if fitted) moves properly.

Windows step 8: Performance and heat

A laptop can look perfect and still overheat in ten minutes because of dried thermal paste or a dead fan. Run a stress test and watch temperature.

1. Open Task Manager (Ctrl + Shift + Esc) and go to the Performance tab.

2. Run the portable version of HWiNFO in sensors-only mode (or OCCT, or Cinebench) from your USB drive.

3. Load the CPU and GPU for 10 minutes while watching temperature and clock speed.

• CPU temperature: under 85 °C under load is acceptable for most laptops. Constantly touching 95 to 100 °C means a cooling problem.

• Clock speed: if the speed collapses to a fraction within a minute, the laptop is thermal throttling, which usually means dried thermal paste or a clogged fan.

• Fan noise: a rattling or grinding fan is a worn bearing. A fan that never spins is a failed one.

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Mac: how to test a used MacBook, iMac or Mac mini with Terminal

Apple makes the checks above easier in some ways and harder in others. Open the Terminal app (Applications, then Utilities) and type each command exactly. These work on every recent macOS version, on both Intel and Apple silicon Macs.

Mac step 2: Identity, specs and locks

Click the Apple menu, then About This Mac, and note the model, chip, memory and serial number. Then read the same facts from Terminal, which reads them straight from the hardware:

system_profiler SPHardwareDataType

That one command prints the model name and identifier, chip or processor, number of cores, memory, serial number, and on newer Macs the Activation Lock Status. A few more:

sw_vers

sysctl -n machdep.cpu.brand_string

sysctl hw.memsize

Check Apple coverage. Copy the serial number into Apple's coverage page (checkcoverage.apple.com) to see the model, purchase date and warranty status. The model on that page should match the Mac in front of you.

Activation Lock. A Mac that is still linked to a previous Apple ID cannot be set up or used. Check it two ways. First:

system_profiler SPHardwareDataType | grep "Activation Lock"

It should say Disabled. Second, open System Settings and look at the top of the sidebar. It should show Sign in, not another person's name. If an account is shown, sign out of iCloud and remove the Mac from Find My before use.

Check for company management (MDM). A Mac from a company or school may be enrolled in device management that can lock or restrict it:

profiles status -type enrollment

The result must say Enrolled via DEP: No and MDM enrollment: No. Anything else means a management profile is still attached. On Intel Macs, also hold Command + R while starting up: a firmware password prompt means a locked Mac you cannot reinstall or boot from another drive.

Mac step 3: Battery health and cycle count

Open System Settings, then Battery, then the information icon next to Battery Health. It shows Maximum Capacity as a percentage and the condition. For the raw numbers, use Terminal:

system_profiler SPPowerDataType | grep -E "Cycle Count|Condition|Maximum Capacity"

ioreg -rn AppleSmartBattery | grep -E "CycleCount|DesignCapacity|MaxCapacity|AppleRawMaxCapacity|Temperature"

• Cycle count: Apple rates most modern MacBook batteries for 1,000 full cycles, and older models for 300 or 500. Look up your exact model on Apple's battery cycle count page. A Mac above 80 percent of its rated cycles has a battery near the end.

• Maximum Capacity: 80 percent or more is healthy. 70 to 79 is fair but already worn. Below 70, or a Condition of Service Recommended, means the battery needs replacing.

• Condition: must say Normal. Service Recommended or Replace Soon means a bad battery.

• Battery swelling: if the trackpad is lifted, the case does not close flat or the keyboard looks pushed up, stop. That battery is dangerous.

Do the same real discharge test as on Windows: unplug the charger, play a video at full brightness for ten minutes and note the percentage drop. More than 12 percent suggests a weak battery.

Mac step 4: SSD health and storage

Modern Macs have soldered SSDs, so a failing drive means a failed Mac. Check what macOS reports:

diskutil info disk0 | grep -E "Device / Media Name|Solid State|SMART Status|Disk Size"

SMART Status must say Verified. Anything else, including Failing or Not Supported on an Intel Mac with an original drive, is a problem. Then look at the volume layout and confirm the capacity matches the listing:

diskutil list

df -h /

To see lifetime writes and wear, install smartmontools with Homebrew and run:

brew install smartmontools

sudo smartctl -a disk0

Look at Percentage Used, Data Units Written and Media and Data Integrity Errors. Percentage Used above 70 is a heavily worn drive. Then verify the file system:

diskutil verifyVolume /

For a basic write-speed test (this creates and then deletes a 1 GB file):

dd if=/dev/zero of=~/speedtest.tmp bs=1m count=1024 && rm ~/speedtest.tmp

Apple silicon Macs normally write well above 1,500 MB/s. A very low number suggests an unhealthy drive or a Mac that is almost full.

Mac step 5: Logic board and hardware health

Run Apple Diagnostics. This is Apple's own hardware test, and it checks the logic board, memory, wireless and sensors. Disconnect everything except power, then shut the Mac down and:

• Apple silicon (M1 and later): press and hold the power button until startup options appear, then press Command + D.

• Intel Macs: press the power button and immediately hold D until the diagnostics screen appears.

The result is either No issues found (reference code ADP000) or one or more reference codes. Write down every code and look it up on the Apple Support page "Apple Diagnostics reference codes". Any hardware error code means the Mac is not safe to buy until it is fixed.

Then check the rest from Terminal:

system_profiler SPDisplaysDataType

system_profiler SPUSBDataType SPThunderboltDataType

system_profiler SPAirPortDataType | head -40

system_profiler SPBluetoothDataType | head -30

memory_pressure

The first shows the graphics chip and display. The next two list the USB and Thunderbolt ports and what is connected, the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth hardware. memory_pressure shows how the RAM is coping. Plug a device into every port to confirm it is detected.

For the crash history, open Console (Applications, then Utilities), choose Crash Reports, then Log Reports. Repeated kernel panics are a serious warning. In Terminal:

log show --predicate 'eventMessage CONTAINS "panic"' --last 7d | head -20

A panic once in a while after a software update is normal. Several in the last week mean hardware faults.

Mac step 6: Screen, keyboard, trackpad, speakers, camera and ports

Screen. Look for dead pixels and stuck pixels, StainGate (a worn coating that looks like stains) on older Retina models, and Flexgate (a backlight that dims or flickers at the bottom of the screen) on 2016 to 2018 MacBook Pros.

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Keyboard. On 2016 to 2019 MacBooks with the butterfly keyboard, a single sticky or doubled key is common and expensive to repair. Press every key.

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Trackpad. Click all four corners. The Force Touch trackpad should click evenly and gestures should respond. Also enrol a fingerprint in System Settings, Touch ID and Password, to test Touch ID.

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Speakers and microphone. Play sound on the left and right channels and record a short clip. Crackling at high volume is a known fault on some MacBook Pros.

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Camera. Open the camera and check the picture quality and that the green light works.

Ports and charging. Test each USB-C or Thunderbolt port with a drive, plus HDMI, the SD card slot and MagSafe where fitted. Confirm the Mac charges with the original Apple charger.

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Mac step 7: Performance and heat

Run a ten-minute stress test, for example with the Cinebench app, while the Mac sits on a flat surface. Use Activity Monitor (Applications, then Utilities) to watch CPU load. On an Intel Mac, check the temperature and fan speed with this command:

sudo powermetrics --samplers smc -i1000 -n1

On Apple silicon, the equivalent is:

sudo powermetrics --samplers cpu_power,gpu_power,thermal -i1000 -n1

Intel MacBooks run hot by design and often throttle. Apple silicon MacBook Airs have no fan, so a short slowdown under a long load is normal. What is not normal is a Mac that shuts down or freezes during the test, or a fan that screams at idle.

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Mac step 8: Confirm a clean setup

• Use System Settings, General, Transfer or Reset, Erase All Content and Settings (macOS Monterey and later on supported Macs). It signs out of iCloud, removes Activation Lock and returns the Mac to a clean setup.

• On older Macs, sign out of iCloud, iMessage and the App Store, then use Disk Utility and reinstall macOS from Recovery.

• After the reset the Mac should reach the setup assistant without asking for a previous account.

Result guide: what each result means

• Battery: 80 percent or more of design capacity is healthy. 60 to 79 percent is worn. Below 60 percent, or over 800 cycles on Windows (a Mac above 80 percent of its rated cycles), the battery is near the end of its life.

• SSD: a Healthy or Verified status with low wear and zero read and write errors is good. Caution, Bad, wear above 80 or rising error counts mean the drive is failing.

• Serial numbers: the sticker, the BIOS or macOS and the box should all show the same number.

• Locks: a Windows laptop should not be joined to a company account or protected by a BIOS password. A Mac should show Activation Lock Disabled and no MDM or firmware password.

• Crash and hardware-error logs: a few old entries are normal. Many recent entries point to a failing component.

• Temperature: under 85 °C under load is normal. Repeated 95 to 100 °C means a cooling problem.

• Devices: the problem-device list should be empty, and every port, camera, speaker and microphone should work.

Frequently asked questions

How do I check the battery health of a used laptop?

On Windows run powercfg /batteryreport in an administrator PowerShell and compare design capacity with full charge capacity. On a Mac open System Settings, Battery, Battery Health, or run system_profiler SPPowerDataType. 80 percent or more is healthy.

How do I check SSD health on a used laptop?

On Windows use Get-PhysicalDisk | Get-StorageReliabilityCounter and CrystalDiskInfo. On a Mac use diskutil info disk0 and smartctl. Look for a Healthy or Verified status, low wear and no read or write errors.

Is there a motherboard health test for a laptop?

There is no single test. Check the board serial and BIOS, read the crash and WHEA hardware-error logs, list devices with problems and run the manufacturer or Apple Diagnostics. Together they cover the motherboard.

How long does it take to test a used laptop?

About 30 to 40 minutes: 5 for the body, 10 for the battery and drive reports, 10 for hardware and ports, and 10 for the stress test.

How many battery cycles is too many?

For most laptops, more than 800 cycles on a Windows laptop, or a Mac above 80 percent of its rated cycles (usually 1,000), means the battery is near the end of its life.

How can I check a MacBook for Activation Lock?

Run system_profiler SPHardwareDataType | grep "Activation Lock" and check that System Settings does not show another person's Apple ID. The status should say Disabled.

Conclusion

Run the battery report, read the SSD health, check the motherboard and hardware, test every port and stress the machine. Together these checks give a complete, accurate picture of any used laptop.

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